Monday, June 30, 2014

Paint Plastic

A little craft paint can liven up your plastic item.


Look around and you’ll find plastic on ballpoint pens, food bowls, containers, lunchboxes and even clear jelly-type summer shoes. With its unbeatable durability and inexpensive price, plastic provides people with a numerous items that enrich their lives. Painting plastic, however, presents unique problems because most plastic surfaces are smooth and resist paint adherence. By following some crafty guidelines, you can paint small details on plastic items or even paint an entire plastic object with good results.


Instructions


1. Prepare the plastic object for painting. This is the most important step in painting plastic because it determines whether the paint will adhere to the item. There are a few ways to do this, and the method you pick depends upon the type of painting you choose.


2. Clean an old plastic item with ordinary dish soap and warm water. Any grease residue on the plastic object will reduce paint adherence. Drop a small item into a sink full of soapy water, or wash a large item with a soft brush and a bucket of soapy water on a clean driveway or sidewalk. Scrub well, spray the soapy water off and allow the item to dry completely.


3. Remove the shine on the surface of the plastic object. The shinier the surface is, the less likely the paint is to stick. If you’re painting an entire item, such as a plastic chair, use fine-grit sandpaper, rubbing lightly over the entire surface to knock off the shine. Be careful not to push too hard and scratch the surface. Sand thoroughly, even a small surface with shine remaining may repel paint.


4. Treat small areas for detail painting by removing the shine only from the portion of the plastic that you will paint. This technique is useful if you will be drawing and painting freehand artistic details on plastic. The idea is to remove the shine where the paint will be while leaving the shine on unpainted surfaces.


5. Sketch lightly on the plastic item with a pencil where your design will be. Only an outline is necessary. For instance, if you’re going to paint a flower on a plastic lunchbox, sketch the outline of the flower, stem and leaves directly on the box.


6. Use a small artist brush, and dip it into liquid sander. Lightly paint the sander inside the border of your sketched design. Don’t worry about making it exact; just keep the liquid sander inside the border of your sketch. Allow the sander to remain on the plastic surface for a few minutes before wiping it off with a clean soft rag. Wipe it quickly and completely to avoid smearing it on adjacent surfaces.


7. Paint your design over the original sketched area with craft paint.


8. Prime large objects with primer designed specifically for plastic. Even after removing the shine, the new paint needs help adhering. Plastic primer bonds to the plastic and provides a porous surface for the new paint.


9. Add plastic flex agent to your paint if the plastic object is flexible. The mistake many people make is assuming a plastic lawn chair is hard, so it must not be flexible. To test for flexibility, grab any part of the object and see if you can bend or twist it, even slightly. If you can, you must add a flex agent to your paint. Follow the manufacturer’s directions when combining the two.


10. Roll, brush or spray on the new paint, taking care to watch for runs. For a nice finish, it’s usually better to apply multiple thin coats as opposed to one thick coat.


Paint Fireworks

Painting fireworks can be a blast for both kids and adults. If you can exhale through a straw, you can paint fireworks that might just leave an impression like Monet. Follow the steps below and you're bound to make a big splash.


Instructions


1. Cover your work area with newspaper to protect it and lay out the paper you've chosen for the sky.


2. Distribute one cupcake liner for each color of paint that you plan to use.


3. Squirt a little bit of paint into each cupcake liner.


4. Spoon a small amount of water into each cupcake liner and stir. Use a separate spoon for each color. Add enough water to thin the paint but not so much that it's completely runny.


5. Drop a spoonful of each paint color in random spots on the sky paper.


6. Grab a straw and blow the paint out into the night sky to create fireworks. Be sure to move the paper around and blow in different directions.


7. Sprinkle glitter on the fireworks when you're finished and before the paint dries. Step back, ogle your creation and repeatedly say, "oooh" and "aaah."


Friday, June 27, 2014

Paint Feathers On Canvas

Sparrows have several differently colored feathers.


Birds feature prominently in many paintings, which is no surprise considering how many artists are inspired by the outdoors. Each type of bird has a different size and style of feather. Peacocks have large feathers in multiple colors, while robins have smaller feathers that are made up of only one or two colors. In order to accurately paint each bird, you need to know what the feathers look like. Simple observation can help you determine which colors to use.


Instructions


1. Pour a quarter-sized dollop of each paint color onto the palette.


2. Mix several colors together with the stick until you have the shades that you need.


3. Paint the main body, or center, of the feather with a medium-sized brush.


4. Pour the water into the cup and clean the brush with it. Wipe dry with a cloth.


5. Paint the outside of the feather with a fine-bristled brush dipped in the color of your choice. Use a brush that is lightly coated with paint and gently rub up from the center of the feather with strokes that start off bold and then fade.


6. Clean the brush in the water once you are finished painting the outer parts of each feather.


7. Paint the highlights of the inside of the feather, using a third brush and paint color. The highlights will vary depending on the type of bird. A fine-bristled brush will allow you the most control. Repeat until all of the feathers are completed.


Make A Dip Pen

The dip pen was the precursor of the fountain pen. Jane Austen used one, as did Tolkien. You can make your own dip very inexpensively, and use it to pen your special correspondence.


Instructions


Twig Dip Pen


1. Choose a twig from which you can make a dip pen. The twig can have some character by being crooked, with knobs, or interesting twists, or it can be perfectly straight. No one design is right are wrong. As it's your pen, make something that is pleasing to you and feels good in your hand when you hold it.


2. Cut the twig to the length of your choice.


3. Measure up one inch at one end, and make an angled cut that at the tip is 2/3 of the full diameter. If there is any bark on the twig, you'll want to strip it from this end.


4. Angle either side of the tip so that the tip becomes chisel-like. This will form the point of your twig dip pen.


5. Make a slit in the middle center of the tip that is ? inch long.


6. Finish the dip pen with varnish, so that it becomes waterproof. By doing this, you're preventing the pen from absorbing the ink when you write with it.


Quill Dip Pen


7. Choose a quill that you would like to make into a dip pen. It can be a plain white quill, or as elaborately patterned as you would like.


8. Use a pen knife to make an angled cut at the tip of the quill. You can, if you like, shape the point of the quill more so that it's like a chisel. You can even round the bottom of the tip slightly.


9. Split the tip of your quill dip pen down the middle, so that it resembles the conventional fountain pen.


10. Keep the point of your quill dip pen by sharpening it with your pen knife.


Bulrush Dip Pen


11. Pick a likely bulrush from which to make a dip pen. A dead one would work best, rather than one that's green.


12. Strip away the outer layers of the bulrush until you reach the firm middle.


13. Cut the bulrush to about eight inches in length. Save the rest of the bulrush in case you make a mistake and need to start over, or if you wish to make more bulrush dip pens.


14. Soak one of the ends that will become the bulrush dip pen's point for at least 15 minutes. If you skip this step, the bulrush will splinter when you attempt to cut it into a point.


15. Make an angled cut at the end. You may have to do this with several cuts rather than just one or two. Unlike the two previous dip pens, the nib of this pen will be square.


16. Bevel the sides of the point or nib, while still retaining the squareness of the nib.


17.Square the point of nib as you make a bulrush dip pen by cutting it as exactly as you can with a sharp knife or pen knife. Split the nib with a knife. Be careful as you do this so that you split only the nib or the point and not the entire of the bulrush dip pen.


Thursday, June 26, 2014

Paint Fake Brick

When finished, your fake brick will look a lot like the real thing.


Fake brick as a variety of uses. You may need to create an entire faux brick wall, fireplace or structure in your home to give it a more edgy or urban look. You may need some fake brick to use in a theater production or independent film. Use paint and plaster or foam to create the look of brick which can be plaster or foam.


Instructions


1. Run your screwdriver all around the edges of your piece of fake brick, be it foam, plaster or some other material. You want to add scratches, dents and other imperfections as well as soften the edges of your fake brick. This will make your fake brick look more realistic when you're done painting.


2. Squeeze some gray acrylic paint into a paper plate. Dip your paintbrush into the paint and cover your fake brick with gray. This will act as a sealing coat for your brick and a suitable base for the subsequent coats of paint.


3. Squeeze out red and cream paint onto another paper plate. Mix with a ice pop stick until you have your desired shade of brick red. Dip your sponge into the paint mixture and press it all over the fake brick, creating a mottled effect. Allow the paint to dry.


4. Add another coat of red if you'd like your brick to be darker. Once that final coat has dried some, but not completely, cover the brick with some white chalk dust to give it a more realistic, slightly dusty effect.


Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Paint Reversed Glass

Paint Reversed Glass


Painting glass has been part of art history for centuries; the earliest examples are painted windows in the 19th century, when large scale sheet glass windows became more common. When painting on glass, the paint is applied to the 'reverse' side of the glass, and unlike regular oil painting, the paint is laid down in layers, with the top-most details painted first, then the background painted on top. The techniques of reverse glass painting can also be used to paint on acetate and acrylic.


Instructions


1. Choose a drawing that you want to put on the sheet of glass.


2. Lay the sheet of glass over the drawing. Trace over the lines of the drawing with the black fine tip marker, and allow it to dry.


3. Flip the sheet of glass over. You'll be painting in the lines on the other side of the glass, from here on.


4. Use paintbrushes to apply paint inside the lines, to match your original drawing. When applying paint, remember to budget time for each color to dry in turn.


5. Start with the smaller details, let them dry, then fill in the background colors.


6. Reverse the glass, after the last layer of paint dries. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove the permanent marker from the front of the glass.


Make Spanish Instruments

Maracas are easy to make and great for keeping beat.


The Spanish create music with a myriad of instruments, from Spanish guitars to maracas to castanets. Castanets are percussion instruments that dancers wear on their hands and click while they dance. Many of these instruments, like maracas and castanets, are simple structures that can be made right at home. If you want to create music like the Spanish do, try creating your very own Spanish musical instruments.


Instructions


Maraca


1. Paint both cups with tan paint. Cover them completely so nothing is showing underneath. Allow the cups to dry. This will take a few hours.


2. Decorate your cups with Mexican colors like red, yellow, green and white. You can create any design you like. Try red horizontal zigzags, or red polka dots. Allow the paint to dry. You can use markers instead if you don't want to wait for the paint to dry.


3. Take one handful of dried beans and put them in one of the cups.


4. Put a glue stick in your hot glue gun and let it heat up for 5 minutes.


5. Line the rim of the cup that has the beans in it with a layer of hot glue and immediately put the second cup on top. Line the rims up so they are even. Allow the glue to dry for a few minutes.


6. Add any other decorations you would like such as pom-poms or buttons.


7. Shake your maraca.


Castanets


8. Set one metal lid face down on a piece of scrap wood and position a nail near the bottom edge. Hold the lid down and hammer the nail until it goes all the way through the lid and makes a hole big enough to fit the hair tie.


9. Pull the nail out.


10. Create a second hole the same way on the side opposite the first hole.


11. Remove the nail and create the same two holes in the second lid. Make sure they are in the same spots as the first holes. You can lay your first lid over the second lid to position the nail in the right spot.


12. Cut the hair tie so it is no longer a loop.


13. Put the two lids together with the insides facing in and the holes lined up.


14. Stick one end of the hair tie through the first set of holes and the other end through the second set of holes.


15. Tie the hair tie in a double knot.


16. Stick your forefinger through the elastic band on one side and your thumb on the other. Pull to spread the lids and then clap them together to make music.


Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Get The Look Of Weathered Barn Siding In An Oil Painting

For a more realistic painting of a weathered barn, look at a photograph for inspiration.


Oil paints are slow drying and blend easily. For this reason, using oil paint to make an object look weathered or beaten can be both simple and rewarding. For a painter used to working with acrylic paint, one notable step missing from this project will be the task of keeping the paint wet. Oil paint will stay wet for hours and even days after it has been applied to a canvas, so where as an acrylic painter would spend a lot of time trying to keep a painting wet, or trying to blend paint that had already dried, an oil painter will easily be able to achieve the weathered appearance of an old barn.


Instructions


1. Paint the barn with a base of dark red paint, thinned with a dab of turpentine. Apply the paint in strokes that run the same direction as the siding on the barn.


2. Dip the paintbrush in a brown paint like burnt sienna, and a yellow paint like yellow ochre. Mix these two colors with the dark red you used in Step 1. Mix the paint with a touch of turpentine to thin it.


3. Paint over the strokes you painted in Step 1, using this new color. Don't entirely paint over the red you applied in Step 1, but apply the brown-yellow-red paint to the edges of each board of the barn, and randomly in the middle of some of the boards.


4. Dip the paintbrush back in the red paint and put a second coat of red paint over the areas of the boards that you didn't cover with the brown-yellow-red mixture. Don't mix the paint with turpentine this time. In oil painting, thinner coats of paint go on bottom and thicker coats of paint are applied on top (see the rule of "fat over lean" in the tips section).


5. Smooth the transition between the brown-yellow-red paint and the dark red paint on the barn siding, using a dry brush. Run the dry brush between the colors until the line between the two applications of paint is smooth and natural.


Paint Encaustic On Canvas

Encaustic painting uses pigments mixed with melted beeswax.


Encaustic painting is an ancient technique that was used by the Greeks and Romans. It involves mixing colored pigments with hot melted wax and painting with the molten mixture. Encaustic artworks retain their fresh appearance and luster and are resistant to moisture, yellowing and deterioration. The most famous encaustic paintings were the Fayum mummy funeral portraits done by Hellenistic painters in Egypt in the first and third centuries. The American pop artist Jasper Johns started a 20th century encaustic revival with his popular flag- and target-themed encaustic paintings.


Instructions


1. Buy your encaustics ready made from an art-supply store if you don't want to make them yourself. To make your own encaustics, buy regular raw beeswax, or commercial grade wax that doesn't need filtering after melting. Melt the wax by heating it in a metal pan over a stove or hot plate at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Filter it with cheesecloth. Mix in damar crystals in a 6 to 1 ratio for a satiny surface. Dissolve oil colors into the wax medium using 15 percent paint and 85 percent wax.


2. Prepare your canvas to receive the encaustic by evenly coating both sides with a thin coat of unpigmented wax. Canvas on a stretcher will work well for thin coats of encaustic. For thicker impasto layers, stretch the canvas over a solid wood panel. This will prevent cracking as the canvas absorbs moisture and dries out, expanding and shrinking in the process. Do not gesso the canvas, as the encaustic will not stick to it. Paint on unprimed canvas, or use the traditional rabbit skin glue and white lead mixture for a ground. Special encaustic gessos are available at art-supply stores.


3. Lay your canvas on a flat surface to prevent the hot wax from running. Use pastel pencils or paint to draw your composition, not graphite or charcoal, as they will stain the wax, giving it a permanent dirty look. Work quickly to use the melted wax before it hardens. Do not draw or color under areas of your painting that will be transparent or white. Use durable, heat-resistant brushes or a painting knife to apply the encaustic to the canvas. Natural hair brushes will not last long when painting with encaustics. Specially designed brass-filament brushes are available for encaustic painting.


4. Apply the encaustics in thin, semi-transparent layers using a glazing technique to build up your colors. Achieve a translucent effect by lowering the amount of pigment in your wax. Fuse the layers gently to avoid melting the lower levels and mixing the colors. If you make a mistake, scrape off the wax instead of painting over it. Let the first layer harden completely before repainting.


5. Paint in a thick impasto style by laying on heavy layers of encaustic. Work the medium with your brush before it hardens for various surface textures. Use a heat gun to soften the layers when working if they cool before you're finished. Carve the heavy layers for more textural effects. Make your painting into a collage by adding other materials to the encaustic layers before they cool. When you're finished painting, burnish the surface with cotton cloth for a satiny sheen.

Monday, June 23, 2014

Paint Designs On Glass

Finished Glass Painting


For years I considered ordering a specialized decorated glass with a family crest on it. But, last Christmas a friend made a suggestion that I do the glass painting myself. So, I decided to give it a try and found it to be easier than I anticipated. Here are the steps you can use to paint glass designs for a personalized decorative glass.


Instructions


1. To begin painting your own decorative glass, first, you'll need some glass to paint on. You can select a drinking glass of any kind or a flat piece of glass, such as a glass plate. You can buy a new item for this, but I found this old glass mug at a thrift store. You can usually find many glass items at a thrift store that are quite inexpensive to use for glass painting.


2. Next, you'll want to decide what kind of paint design you will want on your glass. Consider photos or other images you have on hand; design your own image; or find something off of the internet to use as your glass design template.


Create a copy of, or print your image and cut it to a size that fits on the surface area of the glass that you'd like to have the design on.


3. Place your design on the back side of the glass that you'll be painting on. For instance, if you're painting on a drinking glass, you would place the design on the inside of the glass with the design facing out. Tape the glass design template in place so it doesn't slide around.


4. Using the color of paint(s) you would like to have for the glass painting, use a small brush and trace/paint the glass design on the outer side; or the side you would like the design to be seen on.


You may have to go over the lines a few times so the paint becomes a more solid color.


5. Let the paint dry and remove the glass design template. You can further add personal touches to your decorative glass painting by gluing on gems, ribbon, lace, etc.


I used some fabric I had on hand and made a bag that this decorative glass can be stored in. The fabric is a dark color, so by placing the bag inside of the glass, it brings out the glass painting for a nice display of the glass design.

Friday, June 20, 2014

Paint Art Glass Windows

Achieve the look of stained glass with painted art glass windows.


The art of stained glass dates back to ancient Rome. During the Roman Empire, pieces of colored glass were inserted into window frames to create beautiful designs. Stained glass windows have been popular in churches and homes since their inception. Stained glass windows can be pricey to purchase and difficult to make. However, you can easily make your own stained glass window replicas with painted glass art. Achieve the look of ornate stained glass windows by custom painting art onto glass windows.


Instructions


1. Design your painted glass art window. Search online for the artwork you would like to paint onto the window. Use your printer to print off a copy of the artwork; this will become your template for painting. Use a simple design with large blocks of color for your first few projects.


2. Prepare the frame to be painted. Remove the backing of the picture frame and discard. Use the masking tape to affix the printed art work template to the back of your picture frame. The template should be facing the front of the frame so that the design is visible from the front.


3. Outline your design. Use the liquid leading to outline the design of your art work template onto the front of the glass picture frame. Follow the specific instructions on the liquid leading you have purchased for the best results. Allow the liquid leading to fully dry before moving on.


4. Fill in the design. Use the desired paint color to fill in the design. Use a sponge brush to avoid bristle lines caused by a normal paintbrush. Allow paint to fully dry before moving on.


5. Caulk the picture frame. Apply a thin bead of caulk to the back of the picture frame to fill the gap between the wooden frame and the glass. This will hold the glass in place when the painted art glass window is hung.


6. Prepare the painted art glass window to be hung. Hammer a nail into each of the top corners of the frame. Wrap the picture wire around the nail, just below the head of the nail. The length of the wire will vary based on how low you want your picture to hang.


Thursday, June 19, 2014

Paint Decorative Tile

Hand painted decorative tiles add a special touch to many homes today. In a generation where home owners look for those little things that make their homes stand out from the rest, decorative tiles are a great way to accomplish that goal. Keep reading to learn create your very own accent pieces.


Instructions


1. Lightly sand the surface of the tile until the luster has been removed, then dust completely.


2. Use tile conditioner to clean the tile you are about to paint. Be sure to read the instructions on the conditioner you choose and follow them closely.


3. Prime the tile with a good quality primer. Use a primer designed for high humidity if your tile will be used in a kitchen or bath.


4. Attach the stencil to the tile using an adhesive spray. Make certain the stencil is firmly attached so the paint doesn't run. Keep the stencil rather simple if you are uncertain of your decorative painting skills. Less is more in most cases.


5. Paint the tile. Begin painting along the edges of the stencil then go back and fill in the center, much like tracing and coloring with crayons. Paint with one color at a time and allow plenty of time for drying before moving on to the next color. It is a time intensive process, but well worth it.


6. Allow the freshly painted decorative tile to dry completely, then seal it to protect your hard work.


Make A Glass Transfer Painting

Glass transfer painting is a creative way to bring new life to an image or design.


Glass transfer paintings were very popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. Engravings printed on paper were plentiful, and amateur artists applied various techniques to transfer those prints to glass. They then used the glass transfer as a template on which to paint in a manner that resembled paint-by-numbers. Today, there are a variety of processes to accomplish the transfer of images to glass, but the inkjet printing method is one of the easiest.


Instructions


1. Clean the glass with fingernail polish remover or alcohol.


2. Apply a medium coat of varnish to the glass with a brush.


3. Wait until the varnish is tacky enough to apply your image. When the varnish holds a fingerprint without disappearing, it is ready.


4. Place your image, ink side down, onto the varnish.


5. Hold the image in place and burnish it firmly into the varnish.


6. Apply a small amount of fingernail polish remover to a cotton ball and dab it firmly over the entire surface until the image appears through the wet paper.


7. Burnish again, firmly.


8. Spray water onto the paper, enough to wet it down without soaking.


9. Use your finger to carefully rub the paper off the glass. Spray with water as necessary to keep the paper wet. Continue rubbing until all the paper is removed and just the ink remains on the glass.


Paint Dappled Light

Painting dappled light takes a keen eye and practice.


When sunlight breaks through foliage, it creates dappled areas of light in unexpected places. Artists create the illusion of dappled light through skillful use of irregular mottled areas of light tints juxtaposed with darker shades. The Encyclopedia of Irish and World Art hails Renoir as the master of dappled light effects. According to artist and illustrator James Gurney, the distance between the foliage and the subject determines the softness of the edges of mottled highlights. A variety of techniques can create dappled light effects.


Instructions


1. Lay a sheet of watercolor paper onto the ground in an area where dappled shade falls onto the paper. Trace the shapes and darken the surrounding areas with watercolor or acrylic pigments to capture the dappled pattern.


2. Use a non-staining dark pigment and paint a tree trunk shape. As the pigment begins to lose its shine, dip a clean small brush into water and let small individual droplets fall into randomized areas on the tree trunk. Blot with a paper towel to lift or pick up moistened paint, leaving light areas with soft edges.


3. Moisten a fresh sheet of paper and paint with burnt sienna, burnt umber and raw sienna, allowing the pigments to mix on the paper to suggest bricks. When dry, brush a dark mix over several areas of the bricks and wait a few minutes. Use a clean round brush with plain water and drop a few small random drops of water onto the newly applied paint. Watch the water push the pigment away, and lightly blot the edges of the drops to soften the effect of dappled light.


4. Use a technique called negative painting for the fourth experiment and paint darker tones around lighter areas where sunlight would strike the subject. Make the edges of the sunny spots irregular and vary the sizes. Soften the hard edges of the dappled spots by slightly blending the darker and lighter values.


5. Use masking fluid to protect the areas where dappled light will hit a subject such as a building facade. Paint the building and remove the masking. Leave the edges hard or soften them by lifting paint around the edges of the dappled shapes.


6. Create a dappled effect on a forest painting by dipping a sea sponge into a darker tint of pigment. Gently pat the sponge onto the the painting, and as the pigment begins to dry, soften the edges of the mottled shapes with a moistened brush.


Mix Enamel Auto Paint

Getting your car painted can be a timely and expensive process. With the right tools, painting the car yourself is not difficult. You can save even more money by mixing the paint and adding just the right amount of reducer to stretch out the materials. Just follow the steps below and your paint gun will be full in no time and ready to go.


Instructions


1. Gather your supplies. You will need enamel auto paint with a color that closely matches your car, as well as a paint reducer and a hardener. You'll also need a spray paint gun and a funnel.


2. Estimate the amount of paint you'll need for the job. It's nearly impossible to pinpoint the exact amount of paint you need, but it may be better to err on the side of caution. Auto paint is expensive, and it's better to buy more when you need it than to have too much on hand.


3. Once you figure out how much paint you need, but only buy half that amount, and buy the an equal amount of paint reducer as well as a small amount of hardener. Enamel auto paints sometimes have different thinner ratios and require different amounts of hardener, but this information is always on the instructions right on the paint can. Most have a ratio of 16:16:1 (paint:thinner:hardener).


4. Pour the paint into a container -- make sure the container is perfectly clean before you pour. Add the reducer to the same container. Then add the hardener.


5. Mix the paint, reducer and hardener together in the container with a paint stirrer. Make sure the solution is totally mixed.


6. Take the funnel and insert one end into the paint gun, pour the paint mixture through the funnel into the gun. That's it, you're ready to paint your car.


Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Hold A Silent Auction

Missouri Fine Arts silent auction


Looking to raise money for a good cause or group? A silent auction is a good way to go. Using the good will of others, you can raise money for whatever cause you want without having to buy items you're auctioning off. Knowing carry out a good silent auction is key to raising a large amount of money. Read on to learn hold a silent auction.


Instructions


1. Schedule when you will have your silent auction. The best time to hold the auction is in conjunction with another event that will draw a large amount of people. This can be a large dinner, meeting, fundraiser or any event where there will be a lot of people. If having the auction at a public area or someone else's property, make sure you have permission to hold the auction.


2. Gather things to auction off at your silent auction. Get these items from team members, local businesses, people who support your work or anywhere else you can think of. Items can include autographed books, antiques, gift certificates, art prints, needlework items, food baskets or any other item you think might bring in some money. If some of the items are small and will not bring in much money, combine them in a basket so you can raise the bidding price. Log the items as you get them so you will have a record of the items you have.


3. Have a meeting with all participants a few days before the auction. During this meeting, assign someone to write thank you notes to everyone who donated items. Log all of the items you have gotten for the silent auction and determine starting bids.


4. Create bid sheets for the auction. The bid sheets should include item name, pertinent information, person who donated and opening bid. The bid sheet should also have lines where bidders can put their bid number and amount of their bid. Make sure there is a bid sheet for every item.


5. Create a sign-in sheet. This sheet should be numbered. Each number should have a space for the person's name, address, and contact phone number. When someone signs in they will be assigned a bid number. Their bid number is the number on the sheet in which they put their contact info. All of this info will ensure you can get in contact with the winning bidder, even if they leave before the auction closes.


6. Close the auction. This may take some time, so make sure to correctly time the closing. Inform everyone a few minutes before the auction closes so they can get in last-minute bids. You also want to make sure that you start to close the auction early enough so you can completely close the auction out before the event is over. Have the members of your team go over the bid sheets, see which bid number made the highest bid, and match the bid number to the person who signed in under the number.


7. Keep accurate records. Have one member call off the auction winner and bid amount to another member who writes this info down on a total sheet. Write down the winning bidder's name and the bid amount on 3 x 5 index cards. Give these cards as receipts as you give the item to the winner and they pay.


Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Paint Cupboards With A Foam Brush

Are you tired of walking into your kitchen or bathroom and seeing the same old thing every day? If you are, then maybe it is time to give the room an update. Something as simple as adding a new color--or a fresh coat of an old color--makes a big difference in a room's appearance. Painting cupboards is an inexpensive way to give a fresh look to a drab room. Applying the new paint with a foam brush gives the finished surfaces a satiny smooth appearance.


Instructions


1. Open the cupboard doors. Locate the screw heads on the back side of the doors. Insert the bit of the screwdriver into the head of the screw and turn counterclockwise until the hardware comes off. Make sure you put the hardware and screws where you will be able to find them when you are finished.


2. Place the bucket on a flat surface and pour warm water and borax into it. Put the rubber gloves on and dip the scratchy sponge into the solution. Squeeze the excess water out of the sponge and wash the surface that is going to be painted.


3. Mask the places where the cupboards touch the ceiling, walls or floor by sticking the tape on the surface you want to protect from excess paint. For example, the tape should be stuck on the ceiling running right along the edge of the cupboards. Put drop cloths or newspaper on any other surfaces you want to protect--such as countertops or the floor.


4. Wrap the sandpaper around the wood block. Hold the block firmly at the sides and sand the entire surface you are going to paint. Use small strokes that follow the grain of the wood.


5. Open the primer/sealer and stir it with a stir stick. Using a primer/sealer instead of one that is only primer will do a better job of covering any stains that did not wash off in Step 2.


6. Dip the foam brush about 3/4 inch into the paint. Lift the brush up and wipe off excess primer on the edge of the container so it drips back in with the rest of the primer.


7. Apply a generous coat of primer to the cupboards using short, smooth strokes. Dip the brush in the primer whenever the brush starts to look dry. Let the primer dry completely before continuing.


8. Open the paint can and repeat Steps 4-6 using the paint instead of the primer. Make sure the paint is completely dry before reinstalling the hardware.

Make A Sword

Sword making is an all-but-lost art. It requires time, precision and hours and hours of practice. However, for many it is a fun and invigorating hobby that can transport one back to a bygone era. This tutorial will give you a basic outline and the proper procedures for creating your own sword.


Instructions


1. Come up with a basic design or schematic for your sword. Without an idea of what you will be creating, time spent at the forge is simply a waste.


2. Begin to forge the blade. Here, one has a number of options. Sword designs run from the multilayered, curved katanas to the long and powerful English broadsword. There are different processes for forging different types of swords, and it is highly recommended that one spend some time researching their choice in weapon.


3. Once the blade has been forged, it must be finished. Raw steel will likely still have many imperfections, and the blade must undergo a series of protective measures to prevent against rust, decay and general oxidation.


4. Fabricate the hilt and hand guard. Be it a traditional crosstress, a basket hilt, or the Japanese cloth and rayskin, this is a very important step and quality is essential. If a shoddy handle is used, it will eventually crack and fall apart or potentially bend or warp the blade, as the handle acts as a shock absorber.


5. Now that the raw components have been assembled, it is time to finish the sword. This can mean anything from personalized engravings, to mirror finishes on the steel, to making it razor sharp for practical use. Just be safe and have fun with this terrific hobby.

Monday, June 16, 2014

Paint Over Fake Paneling Drywall In My Mobile Home

The fake paneling drywall in a mobile home requires a few special painting and prep techniques.


Fake paneling drywall may look attractive when it is brand new and offer a cheaper alternative to real drywall throughout your home, but eventually fake paneling drywall becomes dirty, marked, scratched and even punctured. Do not lose all hope over your fake walls; you can repair and paint those walls just like painting traditional drywall without having to cover the walls in plasterboard first. The process is relatively simple and only requires a little extra wall preparing.


Instructions


1. Remove trim strips between fake drywall panels using a utility knife to pry the trim loose without breaking it, which leaves cracks between the panels that you must fill only if you do not plan to replace the trim pieces.


2. Fill all holes and cracks in the fake paneling drywalls, regardless of the size of the holes. Larger holes are more difficult to patch and may require special wall patching kits, while you only need to smear smaller holes full of spackling using the putty knife. Allow the freshly applied spackling to dry for two days before proceeding.


3. Use sandpaper or an orbital sander to sand down the patches of dried spackling to make all wall surfaces completely flat and blemish free. Once finished, removed any small particles sticking out from the wall, run the sandpaper or orbital sander across the entire wall surface to remove the slick texture from the fake paneling drywall to produce a rough surface that primer and paint sticks to better.


4. Clean the walls with an equal part solution of ammonia and water applied with a damp cleaning sponge. Be careful not to over saturate the walls and postpone the painting process even further. This process removes sand and dirt from the walls to create a clean surface upon which to paint.


5. Allow the cleaned walls to thoroughly dry overnight. Fill a paint tray with paint primer, and use a roller to apply a single, solid coat of paint primer to the walls. Allow this primer to dry for a couple of days. Clean the paint tray and roller with paint thinner after applying the primer.


6. Refill the paint tray with paint this time, and paint the fake paneling drywall walls with your choice of paint color. Allow the paint to dry completely for at least two days, and reapply a second coat of paint to cover any light areas or patches where no paint exists. Allow a final drying time of one to two days before touching the wall or replacing wall art pieces.

Friday, June 13, 2014

Paint Rusted Baseboard Radiator Covers

Paint Rusted Baseboard Radiator Covers


Rusty baseboard heater covers are unsightly and dangerous. Little ones crawling on the floor can put their hands on them and get cut or transfer the rust to their mouths. And the longer you don't repair them, the harder it will be when you do. Plan this project for a nice sunny weekend and spend some time outdoors.


Instructions


1. Take the baseboard covers off of the heater and place them on some saw horses or a flat surface outside or in a well ventilated garage. The covers have a top and bottom lip on them that is placed on hooks on the heater. Lift the covers up and pull out and it will be released from the top hook. Then go down with the cover and it will come right off the bottom hook.


2. Sand the covers with a fine-grit sandpaper to remove all of the rust. Use the sandpaper to rough up any paint that did not have rust on it too. Wipe off the sanding dust with a rag.


3. Wash the baseboard covers with a degreasing cleaner and rinse off well. Dry the baseboards with a clean, soft rag and then let them sit to ensure they are fully dry before you start painting.


4. Paint the baseboards with a rust inhibitor primer. Use a paint brush instead of a spray can because the brush will get the paint into the small crevices left from the rust better. Allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer's directions.


5. Paint with a rust inhibitor paint. You will want two coats of paint with proper drying time in between. Allow them to dry and reinstall them on the heaters.


Match Numbers On Antique Cars

A classic car with replaced parts is worth less to collectors.


A well-preserved or properly restored antique car may be interesting to look at and fun to drive, but if you're interested in the monetary value of a classic car, you should know match numbers. Matching numbers means that a car's parts, most notably the body and engine, have matching serial numbers. If an engine has been replaced, or even if the car's paint color has been changed from the original, it will be less valuable to collectors.


Instructions


1. Read and write down the VIN number located on the dashboard of the driver's side.


2. Check the abbreviated VIN numbers on your engine, transmission and firewall, located behind the blower motor.


3. Compare these numbers to the long VIN number from your dashboard. If the last six digits match, the car is considered to have matching numbers.


4. Check the data plate under the hood or on the door jamb to find the color and trim codes for your vehicle.


5. Look up these codes in an ID number catalog to determine the original color and upholstery of your car. If you plan to restore your car, it will be more valuable if the color and upholstery match those of the original model.


Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Play The Harmonica For Kids

The harmonica is a great instrument for children to start with even from a young age. Harmonicas are affordable and fairly simple to use at the basic level. Learning the harmonica will teach basic music theory and the idea of reading music. It can also give a child a great sense of accomplishment after playing the first song. After learning the harmonica, it will be easier to transition into playing other instruments, such as the piano and guitar.


Instructions


Playing the Harmonica


1. Buy a basic 10 hole harmonica in the key of "C." If your child is under 5, you may want to get a starter harmonica, which has fewer holes, making it easier for them to play one note at a time. A starter harmonica may have as few as four holes.


2. Hold the harmonica with two hands, one on each side of the harmonica. Four fingers on each hand will be on the top of the harmonica and only the thumbs below.


3. Pucker your mouth, making a small hole with your lips, and blow into a single hole on the harmonica to play a single note. Practice playing single notes. Start from one end of the harmonica, and blow into one hole at a time, going up in the scale. Experiment with going up and down the harmonica, and with playing random notes.


4. Try playing a song made up of single notes. You can find music on the Internet, or buy a music book specifically for harmonicas at a music store. The music may be labeled with numbers, referring to a corresponding hole on the harmonica, or it might have a letter that corresponds to a hole. Memorize which hole plays which note. Once you learn the song, try playing it from memory.


Paint Ceramic Tile

Ceramic tiles are installed permanently. Unfortunately, colors that are in style seem to change every few months. If you have some perfectly fine ceramic tiles on your bathroom walls, kitchen counters or even your floors that have gone out of fashion, don't fret. Using a little "elbow grease", some patience and paint you can get your tiles back in style (and at a cost that will leave enough money to buy a stylish outfit for someone).


Instructions


Preparing Tiles


1. Start by giving your tiles a good cleaning. Use a good bathroom cleaner or a 50:50 mixture of household ammonia and water.


2. After the tiles have dried, give them a light sanding with fine sandpaper (about 200 grit). Here you just want to roughen the surface so the primer and paint will adhere to the hard, shiny tile surface.


3. Finally, clean up any sanding dust with a vacuum then wash the tiles with clean water and let them dry.


Painting Tiles


4. Protect the area around your tiles with painter's tape or masking tape.


5. Apply a coat of primer to your tiles. If they're in an area where they'll get lots of moisture (like around your bathtub) use an alcohol-based primer, in other areas a latex primer will be fine.


6. After the primer has dried, apply a coat of semi gloss or high gloss alkyd paint and allow it to dry thoroughly (overnight is good).


7. Apply a second coat of your chosen paint and allow it to dry. If you want to paint the grout lines in a contrasting color you can do it using an artist's brush and alkyd paint.


8. Optionally, you can do some decorative painting or stenciling (again using alkyd paint) to customize your newly painted tiles.


9. Wait for two or three days to be sure the paint has dried completely and then apply a couple of coats of water based urethane finish to protect the paint. (Oil based urethane will brown or yellow over time while water based will remain clear).


Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Paint Cardboard Tubing

If you slap a coat of paint over bare cardboard tubing, peeling is likely to occur. Though cardboard is actually just thick paper, when it comes to painting, it is best treated as bare wood. Treat the tubing with a primer base that will promote better adhesion and a longer lasting final finish. Apply a particular paint based on your expectations for the tubing, or you could face durability issues. Add the base undercoat and painted topcoat using a soft-bristled brush, or you may see bristle marks in the finish.


Instructions


1. Wipe the cardboard tubing down with a sticky tack cloth to remove any dust or loose particles that could prevent the primer from bonding.


2. Tape over any surfaces on or adjacent to the tubing if you'd like them kept free from primer and paint.


3. Position canvas drop cloths beneath the cardboard to prevent drips from staining underlying flooring.


4. Brush a coat of latex primer onto the cardboard tubing, using a 2- to 3-inch paintbrush. Nylon paintbrushes tend to leave bristle marks; opt for a polyester brush that will provide a smooth, professional-looking appearance. Let the tubing dry for two hours.


5. Wash the paintbrush three times under a running tap.


6. Brush a coat of paint onto the cardboard tubing, using the 2- to 3-inch paintbrush. Latex paint is fine for cardboard tubing safe from duress; however, it may not remain resilient on tubing that is subject to handling. For the most durable finish, use an acrylic enamel.


Paint Brass Hardware

Hardware ready to be painted


Painting your hardware and fixtures can add a dramatic new look to your home for a minimum investment in materials. Some fixtures are easily painted, while others are more challenging. Paint has a difficult time gripping to metal surfaces in general, and polished brass is nearly impossible for paint to stick to. The result is a paint job that begins to peel and flake in no time. There are steps that can be taken to prevent this from happening so that you can properly paint your brass hardware.


Instructions


1. Remove the hardware from whatever it is attached to. Use a standard screwdriver set to remove hardware from cabinets, doors, windows and anything else that may have brass hardware that you want to paint.


2. Wash the surface of your brass hardware to remove any dirt or tarnish. Use a steel wool pad to scrub each piece. Do not worry about scratching the surface because scratches will help the paint grip to the surface. Rinse and dry each item after you have washed the surface, and set aside for painting.


3. Prepare the area where you will be painting. Choose an area that has plenty of room to work, that is well ventilated and where drifting paint fumes will not damage anything important. Cover the immediate work area with newspaper. Secure the newspaper with masking tape so that it will not blow around, and turn on a fan to provide a constant stream of ventilation to the work area.


4. Spray a coat of self-etching primer onto the brass hardware. Lay the hardware on the newspaper and spray an even coat of primer onto the brass. Shake the can thoroughly and hold the spray nozzle 4 to 6 inches from the hardware. Move the can from side to side in a smooth, fluid motion while spraying the primer. Only use self-etching primer (Resources), which will create microscopic scratches that allow the paint to bond to polished brass. Allow primer to dry.


5. Paint the brass hardware. Shake the paint can well and hold it 4 to 6 inches from the hardware as you sweep back and forth with the spray. You may need to apply a second coat after the first has dried. When priming and painting brass hardware, you may have to treat one side, let it dry, then flip it over to prime or paint the other side.


6. Apply a clear coat to protect paint from being scratched. Use the same painting technique to apply a satin clear coat finish to the dry, painted hardware. This will give your hardware a glossy shine that makes it look brand new, and will also protect the paint. One to two coats of clear finish will be sufficient for brass hardware.


Monday, June 9, 2014

Paint With Tea Bags

Tea bag brewing in a cup.


If you enjoy creating abstract paint effects or working with watercolour paints and want to try a new technique, then try painting with a used tea bag. With a little bit of practice this simple technique can produce an effective and unusual result - similar to sepia or two-tone brown marble. This simple method can even be used to create your very own writing or wrapping paper.


Instructions


1. Make two cups of tea by placing each tea bag in a cup of hot water and stirring well to release the tea pigment.


2. Leave one tea bag in a cup for 1 hour. Leave the other tea bag in a cup overnight. After the allotted time squeeze out all the liquid from the tea bag and remove it from the cup. The water which is left will have been stained by the tea and can now be used to paint with.


3. Create the background with the 1 hour tea water, this will be paler in color. Dip a large soft brush into the cup. Try to soak up a lot of the liquid and paint this in wide even brush strokes across the water-color paper in horizontal lines.


4. Rinse the brush in a cup of clean water and use the damp brush edges to merge any obvious brown lines formed by the tea stain. Let the paint almost dry, so it is just slightly damp to the touch.


5. Create the marble effect detail with the darker 24 hour tea water. Dip a small pointed brush in to the tea water to soak up a small amount of liquid. You only need a small amount as this liquid is more concentrated and darker. Paint thin lines across the damp background. Place these at different angles similar to tree branches. Don't worry if they are different lengths or thicknesses, this is part of the design. Allow the lines to start to dry.


6. Rinse the brush in a cup of clean water and use the damp, pointed tip to softly wet some of the lines to smudge and merge paint into the background. Work over the lines to create a marbled effect. Allow to fully dry.


Paint Brass Cabinet Pulls

Painting your brass cabinet pulls is an inexpensive and attractive way to update your kitchen. There's no need to spend all that money on buying brand new pulls when you can just paint the ones you have. The three main steps of painting brass pulls consist of preparation, painting and applying a protective topcoat. Brass is a durable and timeless material that can be successfully painted with the right preparation and follow up.


Instructions


1. After removing the pulls from the cabinets, clean them thoroughly with soap and water or a cleaner. Greased Lightning or other cleaners with ammonia are particularly effective at removing dirt and grime from brass cabinet pulls. If necessary, soak the brass pulls to remove heavy dirt.


2. Depending on the level of corrosion, you must abrade the surface with sandpaper, a scouring brush or steel wool. This step is particularly important because the corrosion on brass hardware will keep primer and paint from adhering to the pulls.


3. Lay newspaper or a drop cloth down to protect your surface. Arrange the pulls so that you can reach each one easily.


4. Spray on the primer, following manufacturer's instructions. Spray one side completely. Let it dry and then spray the other side. Spray the most visible side last. Continue this process until each pull has been sprayed completely.


5. After the primer has completely dried on all sides, spray the brass pulls with the paint you have chosen. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Again, spray one side completely, let dry, then spray the most visible side last. Continue this process for each pull.


6. Apply a final layer of polyurethane coating after the primer has dried completely. This will give the brass pulls a clean and shiny surface as well as protect them from wear and tear.


Thursday, June 5, 2014

Paint Bonnet Stripes

Give your car a new look with bonnet stripes, also known as hood stripes.


Painting stripes onto your car bonnet, better known in the U.S. as the hood, can update your paint job and give an old car a new look. Some older cars would have had bonnet stripes or racing stripes on them originally, but they have been covered up over the years with new paint jobs. You can choose any color of stripe you want, but commonly white is used on a dark colored car, and black is used if you have a lighter car.


Instructions


1. Apply your stencil or mark out the stripes with masking tape.


2. Sand the area you will be painting with the 1000-grit sandpaper until you have removed the current layers of paint. This will help the new paint to stick to your bonnet.


3. Wipe the area with the car degreaser, using a cloth.


4. Spray the aerosol primer over the whole area which will be receiving the stripes. Put one thin layer on, wait one minute and then put on another layer.


5. Paint on your stripes by spraying the aerosol lacquer paint. You will need to apply three to four coats.


6. Apply two layers of the clear coat paint, when the final layer is dry you can remove your stencil or masking tape.


Get Your Child Hired As A Model

Get Your Child Hired as a Model


Can't you just see your gorgeous child in a magazine ad--once you get that frosting off his or her face? Modeling is not a piece of cake. It's tough, demanding work for you and your child, and involves dealing with tight schedules, rejection and impatient art directors. But if your child is patient, easy going and comfortable in front of strangers, it may be worth a shot.


Instructions


1. Be realistic. Child models must live in or very near a city where work is routinely available. The current top markets are New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and Miami.


2. Contact reputable modeling agencies (check the Internet or Yellow Pages for "Modeling Agencies") with a brief letter stating your interest. Include two or three clear photos of your child (both head shots and full body). Write your contact details and your child's name, age, hair and eye color, and clothing and shoe sizes on the back of each picture (not with a ball point).


3. Visit the agencies that offer you and your child appointments. Show up promptly, come armed with questions, and trust your instincts. If you don't like what you see or hear, try another agency.


4. Review contract offers carefully, and understand the fees and how they're paid. Agencies generally expect a commission of about 20 percent. Be aware that most contracts require you to release control of all photographs; read all provisions and make sure you consent to them.


5. Hit the pavement once you've signed the contract. The agency will send you and your child on go-sees (short meetings with prospective clients). You may face countless go-sees without ever seeing a job. Ask how you should dress your child and bring several changes of clothing, hairbrush, wipes, snacks, drinks and toys to keep your child happy through all the hurry up and wait.


6. Prepare yourself and your child for rejection. Agencies usually have a very specific look in mind, and not even a child as adorable as yours may sway them.


7. Help your child be comfortable throughout the process. Try not to get stressed. Be as natural with him or her as you can, as you are the anchor in a chaotic situation. Listen to the director at the shoot and do what she says. Help your child succeed under the lights by translating the director's instructions into words he or she better understands. Photo shoots can be long, hot and tedious. If you see that your child needs a break, tell the crew.


Paint Birds With Watercolors

Watercolors are ideal for painting scenes of nature and wildlife. The colors are vibrant and lend themselves well to birds in particular, as evidenced by the works of Rita Sklar. Painting with watercolors allows the artist to use a number of techniques such as washing, lifting off and dropping in color to create an array of colorful image effects and patterns that bring the natural beauty of birds to life on canvas. Learn how you can paint beautiful birds with watercolors that you will be proud to display in your home.


Instructions


1. Consider the composition of your painting first. Decide if your bird will be sitting in trees or in flight against a background of sky. Don't worry about sketching in your painting first. Let the natural behaviours of the watercolor paint form your images.


2. Paint your background first. If you are going to put your bird in flight, dampen your paper, then apply a good amount of blue paint to your brush and begin wiping it across the paper, letting the water naturally disperse the paint as you do. This will result in a soft, almost washed look. Once you've applied the first coat of blue, go back and add in some strokes of darker blue paint to add depth to the sky. Clean your brush and make the clouds, using a very wet brush and little paint.


3. Add a few fat strokes of brown watercolor paint at the bottom edge of your paper canvas, then dip your brush into green water color and blot the paint around and above the fat brown strokes to turn them into trees. It's okay to leave a little brown paint on the brush when you do this because the two colors (brown and green) mixed will enhance the shape of your trees.


4. Use a thin brush and add a few birds in flight in the distance. Don't worry about definition here. You want to create an illusion more than anything else. Use a dark shade of the main color for the bird you've chosen to paint and apply curved lines that resemble a lowercase letter "m." Curve the ends of each end tail to give the shape the look of a bird in flight.


5. Add the central bird image to one of the trees. Start with the body color of the bird and paint his head, keeping your brush on your paper canvas and angling it down to paint the general shape of your bird. Once you've achieved the outline, clean your brush and add the distinct coloring that will identify your bird. Do this by dipping your brush in watercolor paints and dabbing the paint onto your bird to achieve its markings. You can leave the markings as they are for a more distinct look, or you can wet your brush and apply water to the paint to create a diffuse effect.


6. Use various shades of color to bring out the feather textures of your bird. This can be done by varying shades of the bird's main body color or by applying strokes of black paint with a very small brush to bring out the layered look of the feathers. You can enhance this by wetting a brush and spreading the water colors out on each feather to create a gradation in color on the feathers that will stand out against the layers created by the thin black lines.


7. Make adjustments as needed. Step back from the painting and view it as a whole, then add paint where you want to darken the images or water if you want to lighten or diffuse. Adding more water will spread the paint out, which is a technique common in watercolor. The effect is such that the painting seems to lack definition close up, but the further away you view it, the more detailed it appears to be.


Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Paint Berries In Watercolor

Conveying berries through watercolor paint is relatively simple to do.


Watercolor painting has been used as a medium in art since ancient times and throughout the world. The flowing effects of water have made watercolors especially popular for landscapes or art pieces that are less uniform in style. Painting berries in watercolor paint does require one to become familiar with the medium and its tendencies, but is a relatively easy task to complete.


Instructions


1. Prepare your work area by laying out a plastic tarp on the surface of the table. Arrange your materials on top of the tarp so they are easy to access.


2. Draw your berries onto the watercolor paper lightly with a pencil. Use a reference photo of berries if you need help perfecting the shape or size of the types of berries you want to paint. Plan which areas will be lightest and darkest by deciding where your light source will be; areas closest to the light source will be highlighted and areas further away will be dark in shadow.


3. If using tubes of watercolor paint, squirt a small amount of the needed colors onto your palette. Use masking tape to tape your paper down flat. Otherwise, the water will warp the paper, and it will not be flat while you paint.


4. Apply water to the watercolor paper using a paintbrush. This tempers the paper and prepares it for your paint. Leave small spots dry on your berries for white highlights.


5. Paint the berries. Use reds, blues and purples to achieve the right color for the berries. Add water to your paints to get the shade you want. With watercolor painting, it is difficult to go back and lighten an area, so start with the lightest colors and darken the areas you need to. Use your photo as a reference.


6. Add further shadows or highlights. Allow your painting to dry and then go back to it. You may want to do this several times. Use a hair dryer if you want to speed up the process. You can lift soft highlights with a clean wet brush and a rag. Be careful not to compromise the surface of your paper. Let the painting dry completely before hanging it or giving it as a gift.

Paint Sea Scapes With Acrylics

A seascape is a painting of the sea, just as a landscape is a painting of the land.


A seascape is essentially a landscape featuring the sea instead of land. This means that the focus of the painting is the water and background, although the seascape may also feature animals, boats or even people. The challenge of painting a seascape in acrylics, as with nearly any painting done in acrylics, is in getting the paint to blend before it dries. Once the paint begins to dry (this happens in only a matter of minutes), blending is much more difficult -- and blending is important for creating a realistic illusion.


Instructions


1. Set up your materials. Because you're working with acrylics, you don't need to worry about ventilation--acrylic paint doesn't emit a smell or harmful vapors. Place your easel in front of you and a palette to your side. You'll need jars of water for mixing water with paint. If you have a picture to look at for inspiration (this is recommended), tape that to your easel or place it somewhere nearby where you can look at it.


2. Draw a line on the canvas to represent the horizon, where the sea meets the sky.


3. Dip a flat, medium sized paintbrush in blue paint. Start at the top of the canvas and paint downward in horizontal strokes. The paint should become lighter as you move closer toward the line where the sea meets the horizon. Mix the blue paint with white, if necessary, as you proceed downward. This part you are painting right now is the sky.


4. Clean the paintbrush and dip it in paint that is a slightly darker blue than what you used for the sky. If you're not sure make a slightly darker blue, dip the paintbrush in a little bit of the blue you used for the sky and mix it with a little bit of brown. There should be more blue than brown in the mixture.


5. Paint the sea in horizontal strokes, starting at the top where the sea meets the sky. Paint down to the bottom edge of the canvas.


6. Dip your medium sized rounded paintbrush in a light blue/nearly white color paint. Paint little horizontal tufts of white distributed throughout the water you just painted in step 4. These tufts of white represent the surf on the waves in the sea. As the tufts come closer to the bottom of the canvas, they should become larger and wider. The tufts of paint that are closer to the horizon line should be thinner and shorter. This is a trick to create the illusion of depth. Use a dry paintbrush to blend the edges of the tufts into the blue paint behind it. If the blue paint of the ocean has already dried when you are painting on the white tufts, you may need to add some fresh blue paint to the area around the white tufts, in order to make blending easier.


7. Clean your medium sized round paint brush and dip it in a darker shade of blue than the dark blue you used for the water. You can darken this blue with a little bit of brown. Use this paintbrush to paint little strokes of darker blue throughout the water, randomly distributed in much the same way that you randomly distributed the tufts of white throughout the water. These darker splotches of blue represent the variations in the surface of the water. As the strokes come closer to the bottom of the canvas, they should become larger, darker and wider. As the strokes of paint are closer to the horizon line, they should be thinner, shorter and less dark. If the blue paint of the ocean has already dried when you are painting the darker blue strokes, you may need to add some fresh blue paint to the area around the darker blue strokes, in order to make blending easier.


8. Once you've painted the sea, add some details to the piece as desired. These details could include a sailboat in the distance, birds in the sky, clouds or a sun.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Paint Barn Scenes

Paint your own barn scene using these simple steps.


Capture the peace and serenity of the farming life by painting your own barn scene. Whether you decide to paint the classic red barn or a more modern barn with towering grain silos, being the creator of your own scene allows you to portray a farm life that is nostalgic or aesthetically appealing to you. Before you begin the painting process, search through your photos -- or find one in a magazine -- that features the barn scene you would like to paint.


Instructions


1. Sketch the outline for your barn scene. Using your reference picture as a guide, lightly sketch out an outline of where you would like to place your barn, any trees or livestock, hills or background scenery. You will first paint the large outlined areas in colored washes, and add the sketched details such as livestock and trees in later.


2. Dip your flat watercolor paintbrush in water until the bristles are saturated. Looking at your reference picture, select a shade of watercolor that you would like to use for the foreground of the painting. Gather watercolor paint onto the brush and paint it onto the paper. You want the paint to have a watery consistency, to create a wash.


3. Dip the brush in the water to clean it. Squeeze any residual paint from the bristles, using a rag.


4. Saturate the brush's bristles with water and gather a shade of paint you wish to use for the background. Paint a wash for the background, as well as the sky and barn. Thoroughly clean the brush before gathering a new shade of paint.


5. Let the washes completely dry.


6. Add details to the painting. Gather paint onto a No. 2 brush to add texture to the grassy foreground and barn. Use the reference picture to select the colors you will need to detail each piece of the picture. Continue to detail the painting until it resembles the reference picture or meets your satisfaction.


7. Add other objects to the painting, such as livestock, trees, and farmers. Allow the painting to dry thoroughly before moving or mounting it.


Monday, June 2, 2014

Make A Mural Online

Murals add personality and interest to a room.


Murals traditionally have come in basic designs such as vacation scenery, sports imagery and mass-produced artwork. Homeowners and artists today look for more creative designs that reflect their personalities, values and artistic interpretations or skills. However, not every homeowner has the skill or time to create a mural and then transfer the image to the wall with ideal results. Instead, homeowners can turn to online printing companies specializing in murals to satisfy their artistic desires. With online stores, artists can create the mural, upload it to the site and have it shipped directly to their doors. By following the simple application instructions included with the mural, homeowners can hang the mural as easily as they would wallpaper.


Instructions


1. Determine and measure the location of the mural. You will use these measurements as guidelines for the mural size when you order.


2. Design your image. For example, this can be a self-drawn piece or family photo. When ordering your mural from an online store, you will need to certify that the works you are submitting are yours only and not copyright-protected material.


3. Using a scanner, transfer the hard copy onto your computer. Save the original file and then make any necessary adjustments with photo-editing software such as Adobe Photoshop or Corel Digital Studio. Save your retouched image for uploading with a separate name as a .jpeg file.


4. Pick your online mural store. Many offer a range of sizes, prices and discounts. Read the general size guidelines and adjust your image as necessary. Small images do not convert well into large murals and will lose their details. A general rule of thumb is to make your print at least 8 by 10 inches or larger.


5. Follow the store's directions for uploading your image and selecting a mural size. Generally, you should see a tab saying something such as "Design Your Own Mural." Next, you should see a variety of sizes to choose from; larger sizes will require more panels. Select the size per your measurements. Then you should be directed to upload your image. Click the browse button, which will open a window that allows you to select your retouched or -sized image. Click continue or proceed to view the image as a wall mural.


6. Proceed to checkout once you are satisfied with your mural. You will provide your personal contact information, payment information and possibly a confirmation of your knowledge about copyright-protected works and company policy. Depending on the vendor, you may be able to complete the order immediately while others will have a sales associate contact you regarding your order.

Paint A Word Picture

The old cliche states that a picture is worth a thousand words. This may be true, but sometimes it's necessary to paint a word picture using descriptive language that creates a vivid image for the reader or listener. The ability to paint a word picture is useful in sales, creative writing and speeches or presentations. The basic approach to creating vivid images with your words is fairly straightforward. You may use a few simple techniques to craft phrases that really bring your words to life.


Instructions


1. Create a visual reference of the scene or object you wish to use as the subject of your word picture. Travel to the physical location, take a photograph, or simply close your eyes and imagine the scene to give yourself an idea of what you want your audience to see and experience.


2. Write down a few basic sentences of what can be inferred from the visual image to use as a basis for the word picture. For example, a scene with a house that has smoke rising from the chimney -- you can infer that there's a fire in the hearth and that the weather outside is chilly.


3. Write down a simple rough draft of the word picture based on the inferences made from the visual reference. For example, the thick smoke rising from the chimney gave the crisp autumn air a faint scent of cedar that reminded him of Christmas during his youth in the woods of Michigan.


4. Use a thesaurus to revise the rough draft. Substitute descriptive words for any common or boring words you used in the original.


5. Write the final draft with the words you found in the thesaurus.